Koda Farms' famous rice legacy continues on their land and beyond

Since news broke that the renowned Koda Farms rice farming family was planning to retire from day-to-day farming, co-owner Robin Koda has fielded dozens of phone calls and social media messages from panicked consumers wondering about the fate of Koda Farms made their beloved heirloom rice – particularly the heirloom Kokuho rose, developed by their grandfather Keisaburo Koda, who founded the farm 97 years ago.

Any answer?

“Stop freaking out. Stay calm. This is the second chapter of the Koda family legacy.”

The rice products will continue to be widely available at Japanese and specialty grocers on the West Coast and other markets across the country. However, Koda Farms rice products are no longer sold at farmers markets in Santa Monica and Hollywood.

The quality of the rice will remain the same and will probably improve, Koda added.

Koda Farms' trademarks for its various rice varieties and rice flours are now licensed to grain manufacturer Western Foods LLC, a family-owned business that sources and processes gluten-free grains in Northern California and Arkansas. Koda said the family will ensure that all products associated with the Koda name receive their approval.

The Koda family produces two varieties of rice, the proprietary medium-grain Kokuho Rose rice and the short-grain sticky rice Sho-Chiku-Bai. They also mill Blue Star brand Mochiko and Diamond K rice flour. Their rice and flour have won acclaim among chefs and food experts, and Kokuho Rose – which continues to have a loyal following today – is credited with playing a key role in popularizing sushi in Los Angeles in the 1960s.

Founder Keisaburo Koda returned to farming after his family was forced into an internment camp in Colorado during World War II and much of his land and equipment was sold. He hired rice breeder Arthur Hughes Williams and they developed the first premium medium-grain rice, which came onto the market as Kokuho Rose. The variety was bred in 1962 specifically for the clay and saline soil and climate of the farm. The aromatic heirloom rice is the result of crossing California medium-grain rice with a long-grain Middle Eastern rice.

Robin Koda said she and her brother, co-owner Ross Koda, will continue to be brand ambassadors and their rice will continue to be available and likely expand its reach to other markets.

“We’re not going anywhere,” emphasized Robin Koda.

Koda said it has become too difficult to continue farming in California. She called various expenses – such as water and insurance – too high. Additionally, her most loyal workers were of retirement age and the labor pool for new workers in South Dos Palos was limited, she said.

Koda's brother and co-owner Ross Koda said he had a lifelong commitment to Koda Farms as the only son in the family, but he had no choice but to move on.

“When I finally had to face the reality that the economics of California agriculture, water availability and climate change have created paradigm shifts beyond our control, I had no choice but to make a business decision without personal and emotional ties meeting about the history of the farm,” he said in a written statement to the Times.

There are no plans to sell the South Dos Palos farm, which has been in the family since 1927, said Koda. She said they would no longer sell rice in the fall when the harvest arrives at the family farm. However, their land is currently being used to grow rice, which Koda Farms is now leasing to another farmer who has a contract with Western Foods.

In the next few years, much of the ancient Kokuho Rose rice will likely be grown primarily at Koda Farm, which covers several hundred acres, but eventually also in Northern California, near Western Foods, said Miguel Reyna, president and co-owner of the corporate

“I think it’s really important to have a few acres there. “That’s where it started,” said Reyna, 52. “I feel part of the family now and I want to make sure the Koda family legacy is preserved.”

Robin Koda said she and her brother had previously tasked Reyna with replenishing their supply of traditional sweet rice.

“We trust him,” Robin Koda said. She said she likes that Reyna's business is also family owned and operated.

“He is the next generation. In a way, that’s how we see Miguel and Western Foods,” Koda said. “This is just a transition. It goes to a family business.”

Rice processing – drying and milling – will no longer be done at Koda Farms in South Dos Palos, but will be moved to a state-of-the-art Western Foods processing facility in Woodland in Northern California that can process more rice. Reyna said some rice may eventually be processed at a plant in Arkansas.

The Koda family will slowly dismantle the processing plant on their farm. The buildings where the rice is processed are decades old, said Robin Koda. Part of the mill dates back to the 1950s and the machinery is slow and old, she said.

“For some machines it is impossible to find spare parts,” she said.

This is the main reason why some of their products are still packaged in paper. They never switched to modern plastic packaging for the 5- and 10-pound bags, Robin Koda said.

She understands that some people find the paper packaging “charming.” However, she said plastic packaging helps better protect rice from pantry pests and does not retain moisture like paper does.

Reyna said Western Foods hopes to expand the brand by using Koda rice to make gluten-free mixes, panko and other organic products under the Koda Farms brand.

Koda is excited about Reyna's ability to increase rice production and make the grain available to more consumers.

Kokuho Rose was considered a modern variety in her grandfather's time, but it grows too slowly and is too low-yielding by today's standards, Koda said. She hopes Reyna will find a way to get better returns.

Reyna said Western Foods hopes to increase production and processing in Northern California by double digits each year and increase customer demand.

Reyna said the Kokuho rose will eventually be grown in the Sacramento area, the state's largest rice-growing region. “It might be a better growing area for the kokuho rose,” said Reyna, who is working with a team of researchers at UC Davis to assess whether the rice will grow well there.

Koda says Reyna reminds her of her grandfather. The son of Mexican migrant farmworkers, Reyna started as a laborer in a rice mill and worked his way up to management positions before starting his own business.

“Miguel just has this big vision and endless energy,” Koda said. “He has drive and ambition and what’s more, he has the resources.”