How Chef Chuy Cervantes Makes the Best Summer Ceviche

When it comes to making ceviche, “It's supposed to be a lot of fun,” says Jesus “Chuy” Cervantes, executive chef at Damian in downtown LA's Arts District.

It's a dish that the Mexican fine-dining restaurant has had on its menu since it opened in fall 2020, although the ingredients change depending on the season.

“Usually it's something you take in a festive setting, or if not, perhaps for a hangover, meaning you've had a celebratory evening,” says Cervantes.

Here are Cervantes' tips for making the best ceviche possible.

The main ingredient in every ceviche is fish. “Generally, you want to use a softer, white-fleshed fish that will stand up to the vegetables but will still break down a bit in the citrus juice and soften enough to be enjoyed with the other vegetables included in the dish.”

Cervantes used a kanpachi fillet from Baja California, but the main priority is purchasing fresh fish from local fishermen and markets. When selecting a fish, make sure it has no discoloration, no noticeable cuts, or anything that indicates it sustained injuries during capture.

“You can tell if there are broken pieces in the meat or bloody-looking chunks in the meat,” Cervantes says. “This may mean that the product is not as high quality as you would like.”

Then cure the fish with sugar, salt and lime zest. Stir the mixture until there are no lumps and a fine dust forms. Generously coat both sides of the fish and place in the refrigerator to harden.

“The idea behind the cure is to remove as much moisture from the fish as possible while simultaneously seasoning it so that you end up with a firmer consistency,” says Cervantes.

Cervantes recommends using red onions for ceviche. “It has a little more bite, a little more spice and in the end it becomes softer and has that sweetness that we all love. White onions tend to get a little lost.”

He also loves celery for ceviche. Use the inner part of the stem, which is tender and less fibrous than the outer ribs. The leaves can be used as a garnish.

Basically, no ingredient should be bigger than the fish. “The fish should be the focus of our ceviche,” says Cervantes.

Avocado is the only ingredient that is cut to the same size as the fish. This allows the avocado cubes to contrast with the texture of the fish, says Cervantes. When choosing an avocado, make sure it is firm, not too soft, and without any pits or bruises. The chef recommends removing the stem to check the ripeness of the fruit. If it is light green, it needs more time. If the color appears ripe, it has matured.

Young ginger is preferred for ceviche, which is less fibrous and sweeter than ginger that grows towards the end of the season. However, if you can't find young ginger, you can also boil it to wash out the tart taste.

Once the fish is ready, brush off the puree and cut into strips. When doing this, be sure to cut off the dark muscle known as the “bloodline” that runs near the blood that flows along the fish's spine. It's good to eat, but imparts a fishier flavor that can overpower ceviche.

When combining the ceviche ingredients, vigorously stir the olive oil with a little salt until emulsified. This way, when you add the lime juice, the oil doesn't separate from the citrus.

This type of fresh ceviche is best made to order and should not sit for too long. “The lime juice not only cooks the fish, but it also starts to soften all the rest of the vegetables, and you won't get that really nice crispy ceviche that we like,” says Cervantes.

After garnishing with celery leaves and cilantro, serve the ceviche with salsas, tortilla chips, crackers, or on a tostada. Or do like Damian chef and owner Enrique Olvera and eat it in a tortilla like a taco.

Check out Damian at Food Bowl on Sunday September. 10 p.m. to 3 p.m. in the backyard of Paramount Pictures Studios.