There's no substitute for the low tables and frenetic energy of Thai restaurant Holy Basil, but it's possible to recreate some of chef Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat's culinary magic at home. At his downtown and Atwater Village restaurants, he and his partner Tongkamal “Joy” Yuon sample rich curries, seafood specialties and Thai street food classics like Kai Jiew, the iconic, fluffy Thai fried omelet.
“It's such a simple dish,” he said, “that it might be the first thing you learn to cook in Thailand. Your mom will probably ask, 'Hey, can you help me make kai jiew?'”
It accompanies the omelet with prik nam pla, a classic Thai cure-all that balances the salt and spice of fish sauce with sugar, finished with plenty of freshly squeezed lime juice and flavors like garlic, chilies and coriander. Arpapornnopparat likes to prepare his prik nam pla about an hour in advance so that the flavors fully blend.
Don't be put off by the two cups of oil in the omelet. Arpapornnopparat says that what matters is the amount of oil that maintains a high temperature for frying the egg; Without them, the eggs would lack the characteristic fluffy consistency that distinguishes Kai-Jiew from other fried eggs.
Since the oil needs to reach a temperature of 400 degrees, it's best to use an infrared thermometer gun or deep fry thermometer to check the heat regularly. These are available online or at most major hardware stores for between $15 and $20. When it comes to pans, Arpapornnopparat recommends using an 8-inch skillet, which will ensure the right diameter for the omelette; A slightly larger pan can be used, but the shape of the eggs must be maintained when frying. To prevent oil from spilling, make sure there is at least 1 inch of space between the oil and the side of the pan before adding the eggs.
At Holy Basil, Arpapornnopparat opts for rice bran oil and serves the kai jiew more simply – with a simple egg, garnished with white pepper and coriander – but at home the chef says he prefers to make the omelette this way, with shallots, fish sauce , chilies and add garlic flavor to the eggs when frying.
Try this omelette and prik nam pla alone or with rice; With rice, this recipe easily serves two people.
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